Üsküdar University's CRISPR-backed cotton project draws attention…

Faculty Member at Üsküdar University's Faculty of Engineering and Natural Sciences, Department of Molecular Biology and Genetics and Director of the Transgenic Cell Technologies Application and Research Center (TRGENMER) Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan, and TRGENMER R&D Officer Beyza Aydın, gave an interview to Hedef Magazine, published by the General Secretariat of Istanbul Textile and Apparel Exporters' Associations (İTKİB), about the "Cotton Seed Development Project with Increased Fiber Length and Strength" which they carried out in collaboration with ASTER Textile within the scope of the University-Industry Collaboration Project. 

In the interview, studies aimed at increasing the fiber length and strength of local cotton seeds with the Nobel Prize-winning CRISPR/Cas9 gene editing technology, Turkey's goal of reducing its foreign dependency on cotton, and the strategic contributions the project will make to the textile sector were discussed.

"The aim is to unleash cotton's own genetic potential"

We would like to talk about the Nobel Prize-winning genetic discovery, CRISPR/Cas9 gene editing technology, which we are working on. 

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan: CRISPR/Cas9 is a Nobel Prize-winning gene editing technology that has initiated one of the biggest transformations in the fields of biotechnology and genetic engineering in recent years. This technology, which I have been working on for many years, allows us to precisely intervene in targeted regions of organisms' genomes. Thus, gene regions within the plant's own genome that affect agriculturally important traits can be edited. Specifically for cotton, this technology provides us with a significant advantage. Because the most critical parameters in cotton are fiber length, strength, fineness, and quality consistency. Using this technology, we aim to unleash the genetic potential of the cotton plant more precisely, quickly, and controllably. Our approach is not to transfer a foreign gene from an external species to the plant; rather, it is to enhance fiber quality by editing specific regions within the plant's own genome. Therefore, this technology allows us to develop the inherent potential of cotton much faster and with scientific precision in a laboratory setting.

How did the project emerge?

You launched the Cotton Seed Development Project with Increased Fiber Length and Strength. How did this project idea come about?

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan and Beyza Aydın: The project originated from the idea of bringing together our country's textile strength and agricultural biotechnology capacity towards the same goal. The plant biotechnology laboratory infrastructure established with Aster Textile's investment is also a tangible outcome of this vision. Despite Turkey's strong production and export capacity in the Textile and Apparel sector, it still remains dependent on foreign sources when it comes to high-quality cotton raw material. In the global textile market, long-fiber, high-strength cottons like US Pima and Egyptian Giza cotton stand out in quality perception. Although Turkey has a very strong cotton production potential, more advanced biotechnological approaches are needed to compete in quality parameters such as fiber length and durability. Therefore, the project idea was born out of necessity: the need to develop our local cotton seeds in a way that suits our country's climate and production conditions while also elevating fiber quality to an internationally competitive level. In the textile industry, fiber length and strength are not merely agricultural traits but strategic parameters that directly determine yarn quality, fabric durability, production efficiency, and the final product's value. In this context, with the work we have developed, we aim for our country to achieve a stronger position in high value-added cotton and textile exports. The scientific framework of the project was built upon the objectives of preserving local cotton genetic resources, enhancing fiber quality, and increasing Turkey's competitiveness in high value-added cotton production. 

What are the characteristics of genetically enhanced cotton?

Beyza Aydın: The most fundamental difference of the cotton plants we have developed is that they are designed to increase the fiber length and strength of cotton grown in our country. In cotton, fiber length is a very important criterion that reduces breakage rates in yarn production and enables the production of smoother, higher-quality yarn. Fiber strength is one of the key parameters determining durability both in the production process and in final products. Our focus in this study is to obtain stronger variants in terms of fiber quality by preserving the genetic potential of local cotton seeds. In other words, our goal is to ensure that these plants create a measurable quality difference throughout the textile chain, from yarn to fabric. Currently, this work encompasses R&D and validation stages conducted under laboratory and controlled growth conditions. For transition to farmer use, field validations, performance analyses, quality measurements, and relevant permitting processes must be completed.

"We aim for a performance increase of up to 30-40 percent in fiber quality"

How do you think this project will provide an advantage to Turkey in domestic cotton production and transform Turkey's cotton imports?

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan: Despite being a strong country in the Textile and Apparel sector, Turkey is significantly dependent on foreign sources for quality cotton. While our country's annual cotton imports remain at very high levels, cotton exports lag far behind. This situation shows us that Turkey needs to produce not just more cotton, but higher-quality and more value-added cotton. Our main goal in this project is to contribute to Turkey's transition from being a cotton-importing country to a country that develops and exports high-quality cotton. It is known that local cotton fibers remain shorter compared to international quality standards. We aim not only to close this gap but also to elevate local cotton to a level where it can compete with high-quality cottons through the right genetic engineering approach. Even a 15–20 percent improvement in fiber quality can create a significant leap in Turkey's cotton quality. Our R&D targets are to achieve a performance increase of up to 30–40 percent in fibers obtained from local seeds. This development will impact not only agricultural production but also the entire chain of yarn, fabric, apparel, and exports. In such projects, translating laboratory success to field and commercial production takes time. We anticipate more visible results within a few years; and within a five-year perspective, it could reach a point where it creates high value-added export potential for the national economy.

What will be the biggest advantages of the new variety for farmers? Will the climate of the regions support the adaptation of the new variety?

Beyza Aydın: Cottons with a more durable fiber structure can reduce quality loss during harvest and processing. Preventing problems such as fiber breakage, quality degradation, and waste, especially during harvest, directly translates to an economic advantage for the farmer. The development of durable cottons with enhanced fiber quality has the potential to increase the product's market value. Farmers can obtain higher value from the same area not only in terms of quantity but also in terms of quality. This can strengthen the income model of cotton producers. We are working with ancestral seeds and local genetic resources from different regions of our country, which can adapt to various climate and growing conditions. This approach is important for the developed plants to show stronger adaptation in Turkey's cotton-producing regions. We are also planning a project study on the potential for our developed cotton plants to grow in regolith conditions similar to lunar soil. This shows that we are addressing agricultural biotechnology not only for today's needs but also for a sustainable and space-focused agricultural vision of the future.

Challenges encountered in the technical process

You have succeeded in reducing changes that could take thousands of years with classical breeding methods to just a few years in a laboratory setting. What were the most technically challenging factors for you during this process?

Beyza Aydın: This project is the result of an intensive R&D process that has been ongoing for approximately three years. The process is not limited to just a theoretical gene design. One of the most critical stages was the identification of candidate genes related to cotton fiber development and strength, and the creation of the CRISPR targeting strategy to be applied to these genes.

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan: By analyzing literature, bioinformatics evaluations, and cotton biology data together, I designed a 16-gene targeted modification approach and structured the project's scientific development pipeline according to these objectives. This design was then supported by laboratory optimizations, transformation studies, and phenotypic verification processes. During the experimental process, we encountered hundreds of unsuccessful plants, numerous failed transformation and optimization attempts. The selection of suitable growth media, growing plants under controlled conditions, adjusting photoperiods, maintaining healthy development in climate chambers, and verifying plants after genetic editing were the most critical stages of this process. Additionally, over 10 of our master's students have contributed to this project.

How will the increase in fiber quality directly affect yarn and fabric performance?

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan: Cotton quality is one of the most critical determinants in the textile chain. As fiber length increases, smoother, more durable, and less prone to breakage yarns can be produced. Increased fiber strength boosts production efficiency during the yarn spinning process and enhances the durability of the final fabric. This directly reflects on the textile product's quality, lifespan, and value in the international market. Our goal is not just to produce cotton fiber; it is to ensure a measurable quality improvement throughout the entire chain, from fiber to yarn, from yarn to fabric, and from fabric to the final product. Providing high-quality cotton from domestic sources can elevate Turkey's strength in this area to a more strategic level. If Turkey can develop its own high-quality cotton and integrate it into its textile industry, it can become not just a producer, but a country that sets quality standards and exports high value-added products.

How is the performance increase of up to 30-40 percent achieved in developed cotton varieties measured in the field?

Beyza Aydın: The target of a performance increase of up to 30–40 percent is not merely an observational assessment. Parameters such as fiber length, fiber strength, fiber fineness, uniformity, and quality consistency in cotton must be measured using standard test methods. Therefore, in the cotton lines we developed, laboratory analyses, controlled growth conditions, phenotypic observations, and textile quality tests are evaluated together. The targeted performance increase is not based on random genetic intervention but on a pre-designed 16-gene targeted CRISPR modification strategy.

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan: One of the important aspects of the project is that measurements are taken not only at the cotton fiber level but also at the yarn and fabric performance levels. Because the true economic and industrial value of an improvement observed in fiber emerges when it is reflected in yarn production and fabric performance. To ensure data reliability, the same genetic line must be evaluated with repeated analyses, compared with control groups, tested under different growth conditions, and ultimately validated with field trials.

Emphasis on "GMO Free Turkish Cotton"

Turkey is striving to brand "GMO Free Turkish Cotton" on a global scale. How will genetic enhancement efforts affect this brand perception?

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan: This is a very sensitive and strategic topic for us. Turkey's perception of "GMO Free Turkish Cotton" creates significant brand value in the international market. Our gene editing approach has the potential to strengthen this perception rather than harm it. In public perception, GMO generally refers to the transfer of a foreign gene from another species to an organism. However, in our work, the goal is not to introduce foreign genes into cotton; rather, it is to enhance traits such as fiber length and strength by editing specific regions within the plant's own genome. These studies are not opposed to the "GMO Free Turkish Cotton" brand perception; on the contrary, they can be positioned as a new-generation technology that supports Turkey's vision of producing clean, traceable, local, and high-quality cotton.

Future goal: More sustainable and colored cottons

How do you think genetic engineering will create a transformation in the textile sector in the future?

Asst. Prof. Cihan Taştan and Beyza Aydın: One of the most significant advantages of CRISPR/Cas9 technology is its adaptability not only to cotton but also to different plant species and natural fiber sources. Therefore, in terms of textile raw materials, genetic engineering will create a very significant transformation in the future. It will become possible to develop plants with longer fibers, greater durability, requiring less water and chemicals, and more adaptable to environmental conditions. When Turkey can develop its own high-quality cotton, it will not only reduce raw material imports but also achieve a stronger position in the export of high value-added cotton, yarn, fabric, and apparel. For this reason, we see this project not just as an agricultural project but as a strategic biotechnology project that redesigns Turkey's textile industry at a genetic level. Another area we aim to work on is cotton's color genes. Coloring and dyeing stages in the textile sector require significant amounts of chemical, water, and energy use. One of our long-term visions is to target cotton's color potential at the genetic level, enabling specific color characteristics to be obtained directly during the plant's growth process. Such an approach can contribute to reducing chemicals used in textile dyeing processes, developing more sustainable production models, and lessening environmental impact.